I had not planned to swap Jordan for Serbia. Like many trips, this one had been built around a completely different idea, and I had expected to be heading to Jordan without much doubt. That changed abruptly when my flight tickets were cancelled, forcing me to rethink everything at short notice. Instead, I found myself adjusting on the move, flying from Malta to Cyprus and then continuing on to Belgrade the following day. For a moment, it felt like the trip might fall apart altogether. Instead, it became something else entirely.
Looking back, that sudden change was probably what made the journey more memorable. There was less expectation and more curiosity. I arrived without a fixed image in mind, and that made it easier to appreciate what was in front of me. In the end, Belgrade turned out to be exactly the kind of trip I needed. It was easy to reach, refreshingly affordable, and full of character without trying too hard. Over five days, I split my time between the lively streets of the capital and a short road trip through northern Serbia. It was one of those trips that felt both relaxed and full at the same time.
I arrived in Belgrade just after midday and made my way to my apartment near Republic Square. It was the perfect base. Everything I needed was within walking distance, and the atmosphere outside felt alive from the moment I stepped out. Even on that first afternoon, I could tell this was a city that did not hold back.
I spent the rest of that day getting my bearings. Republic Square itself was busy but not overwhelming, with people coming and going at all hours. From there I wandered along Knez Mihailova Street, which quickly became one of my favourite places in the city. It had a steady flow of locals, street performers, and cafés, all set against a backdrop of elegant buildings that hinted at the city’s past.
As the afternoon turned into evening, I made my way towards Kalemegdan. This was easily one of the highlights of Belgrade. The fortress sits at the meeting point of the Sava and Danube rivers, and the views from the top were far better than I expected. I stayed there longer than planned, watching the light fade over the water. It was the kind of place where time slows down without you noticing.
That evening gave me my first real taste of Belgrade’s energy. The city seemed to wake up after dark. Restaurants filled up, bars became lively, and there was a sense that people were genuinely enjoying being out. It never felt forced or overly touristy. It just felt real.
The next day, I explored more of the city at a relaxed pace. I started again in the centre, this time visiting the Church of Saint Sava. It was enormous and impressive, both inside and out. The interior, with its detailed decoration and vast dome, felt almost overwhelming in scale. It was a clear contrast to the busy streets outside.
Later, I made my way to Zemun, which felt like a completely different place. It had a slower, more laid back atmosphere, almost like a small town by the river. I walked along the Danube promenade and then climbed up to Gardoš Tower. The view from the top was worth the effort. It gave a wide perspective over the rooftops and the river beyond. I stayed there for a while, simply taking it in.
Back in the centre that evening, I explored Skadarlija. This old bohemian quarter had a slightly more traditional feel, with cobbled streets and restaurants that leaned into their heritage. It was more touristy than other parts of the city, but still enjoyable. The food was hearty and simple, and the atmosphere was warm and welcoming.
On my third day, I slowed things down and spent some time at Tašmajdan Park. It offered a completely different side of the city, one that felt calm and unhurried compared to the busy centre. The park was well kept, with wide paths, open green spaces, and plenty of benches where people sat and enjoyed the day. Nearby, the presence of Church of Saint Mark added to the setting, its striking façade standing out against the softer surroundings of the park. Even at that time of year, there were locals walking, chatting, and taking a break from their daily routines. It was a simple part of the city, but one that felt genuine and easy to enjoy.
That evening, I had one last wander through the centre. By then, I felt completely comfortable in the city. It was easy to navigate, easy to enjoy, and never felt overwhelming.
On the morning of the fourth day, I picked up my rental car and moved to my second apartment, slightly outside the centre. This gave me a different perspective on Belgrade, one that felt more residential and less focused on visitors. It was a good transition before heading out on the road.
The following day, I set off early towards Novi Sad. The drive itself was straightforward, with good roads and very little stress. It took just over an hour, which made it perfect for a day trip.
I started at Petrovaradin Fortress, which sits just across the river from Novi Sad. The fortress was large but easy to explore, and the views over the Danube and the city were the main highlight. I spent some time walking around the walls before heading into the city itself.
Novi Sad felt noticeably different from Belgrade. It had a more Central European feel, with colourful buildings and a quieter, more refined atmosphere. I walked through the main square, stopped for a coffee, and simply enjoyed the slower pace.
From there, I continued to Sremski Karlovci, which was only a short drive away. This small town was one of the most charming places I visited on the trip. Everything was centred around a compact square, with historic buildings, a cathedral, and a calm, almost timeless feel. I spent about an hour walking around and tried a glass of local Bermet wine, which the area is known for. It was a simple but memorable stop.
After that, I headed into Fruška Gora, specifically towards Krušedol Prnjavor. The drive became more scenic as I moved into the hills, with forests and small villages along the way. The monastery itself was peaceful and quiet, set away from everything. It was not crowded, and that made the experience feel more personal.
I returned to Belgrade in the late afternoon, feeling like I had seen a completely different side of Serbia in just one day.
On my final full day, I decided to keep things simple and head out for a shorter drive from Belgrade. With the weather not at its best, I chose to visit Smederevo Fortress instead of going further east. The fortress was far larger than I expected, stretching along the banks of the Danube with a raw and imposing presence. Walking along its walls, I could imagine its past importance, even though today it felt quiet and almost overlooked. The grey skies seemed to suit the setting, adding to the atmosphere rather than taking away from it.
Afterwards, I continued towards Pančevo for a short stop. It was a much smaller and more local place, with a relaxed pace that contrasted nicely with Belgrade. I wandered through the centre, passed by Church of St. Nicholas Pančevo, and spent some time along the river before heading back. It was not a place filled with major sights, but it offered a glimpse into everyday life, which made it worthwhile in its own way.
By the time I returned to Belgrade that evening, I felt like I had seen a lot without ever feeling rushed. The balance between city life and day trips had worked perfectly.
On my final day, I made my way to the airport for my flight back to Malta. It was an easy departure, much like the rest of the trip.
Looking back, Belgrade surprised me in the best possible way. It was not polished in the way some European capitals are, but that was part of its charm. It felt genuine, lively, and welcoming. Combined with the nearby towns, monasteries, and natural landscapes, it offered far more variety than I had expected.
What stayed with me most, though, was how the trip had come together. What began as a disrupted plan ended up becoming something far more rewarding than I had imagined. Being forced to change direction made me more open to the experience, and in many ways, that made all the difference.
It was one of those trips that came together unexpectedly but stayed with me long after I returned home.
