Part 2 of 6
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In Tunisia’s capital, Tunis, the term “living history” really does apply. Here, periods of conquest, trade and independence have woven into the city’s fabric and culture a rich and complex flavour that becomes apparent wherever you explore. Despite that, my boyfriend and I decided to stay in nearby Sidi Bou Said, both for logistical reasons as well as aesthetical ones; we wanted a quick access by car to other parts of the country and we also wanted to spend a couple of nights in this beautiful town that bears resemblance to the Greek island of Santorini.
Tunis is divided into the old city, known as the medina, and the new city, or ville nouvelle in French. Ave Habib Bourguiba is the large avenue running through the new city from the clock tower to the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. It then turns into Ave de France, which runs for a few blocks until ending at the Place de la Victoire and the Port de France, a large free-standing gate that used to be the entrance to the medina – getting lost once you pass the main entrance gate is all part of the fun!
The Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul, built in 1882 in the neo-Romanesque style, is the largest surviving building from Tunis’ colonial era. The church was designed in the Moorish, Gothic and Neo-Byzantine styles by architect L. Bonnet-Labrance, and is dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul, the patron saint of charity. Other than the stained glass, there’s not much of interest inside but it’s a nice quiet respite from the outside.
A modern metropolis in full growth and major historic city, Tunis is always full of surprises. On the side of the medina, numerous ancient buildings open their doors, some transformed into museums or cultural centres, others into restaurants and tea rooms. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, the medina conceals treasures. From its gates extend picturesque quarters with beautiful façades from the 1900s, whilst on the peripheries, chic restaurants and entertainment venues rub shoulders in the modern quarters.
The ancient quarter of Tunis, the medina, is exceptionally well preserved. The souks, covered with arches let in a dim light, teeming and bustling and overflowing with all sorts of merchandise: fabrics of a thousand colours, perfumes or precious jewels. The contrast with the peaceful neighbouring alleys is striking. White walls and blue ironwork, vaulted passageways, domes with green tiles, yellow doors framed with delicate patterns in carved stone. Knowing how to meander is important to fully appreciate the diversity of the medina.
There’s a term in old Tunisian, ‘doolesha‘, which roughly means to stroll at a slow pace for pleasure, and there’s no better way to explore Tunis City than by heading out for a long doolesha. The old Medina is especially best seen on foot, as the maze of souks located around the Zaytouna Mosque can captivate for hours. You’ll likely get lost a time or two as you wander the many alleys and shops packed into the old city.
Around the Zaytouna Mosque, you will forget that time exists. The colourful markets or souks are entwined with palaces, alleys, fountains, mausoleums and small craft workshops linked through narrow passages. Want a tip? Go up to the roof of a building and watch the sunset in the Medina from above. In our case, it was around noon but the view of the medina will imprint an image in your mind that you will never forget!
Located in the heart of Tunis’ medina, this important mosque was founded in 734 and built on a site once occupied by a church. It was totally rebuilt in the 9th century and restored many times over the centuries, and its huge prayer hall incorporates more than 200 columns scrounged from Roman Carthage. Its Almohades-style minaret in the northwest corner is a medina landmark. Only Muslims may enter the mosque, though the courtyard can be viewed from the terrace of nearby cafes or shops.
Unfortunately, in the medina, wherever we turned, we were hassled by shopkeepers, and at one point, even chased by one of them in order to enter his shop and presumably, buy something! The locals just don’t know the word NO and won’t leave you alone. Generally, you should assume *everyone*, no matter what or whom or what for, except the people you yourself speak to and decide to hire, are pushing themselves on you. Good luck, but also keep in mind that even if you do get cheated by a taxi, it’s only going to be for an extra €2 to €3. Don’t let it ruin your day.
If you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city centre, a short trip to La Goulette will do just the trick. La Goulette is the city’s port, on a sandbar between Lake Tunis and the Gulf of Tunis. It’s a rustic suburb, but its large Kasbah fortress makes it worth the trip – built by Charles I of Spain in 1535, it was captured by the Ottoman Turks in 1574.
Set between the Lake of Tunis and the Gulf of Tunis, you’ll immediately feel calm as the sea breeze washes away the sticky heat of the city. Stop by a cafe, and you may find yourself people watching for hours on end. Trams run here from the city centre every 15 minutes – at weekends, you’ll see locals making the journey for lunch or dinner at La Goulette’s smattering of fish restaurants.
For even more relaxation, an hour’s drive from Tunis City will find you in the town of Hammamet. If you have your own vehicle, head to the beaches on the outskirts of the city, where few tourists bother to venture. Here you’ll find long stretches of empty beach and can bask all day in the warm sun.
The city is surrounded by small towns and you MUST visit Sidi Bou Said and Carthage. Mythical prestige lingers among the ancient ruins of Carthage, the former seat of the Carthaginian Empire, which was one of the major powers of the ancient world at its height in the fourth century CE. The Unesco Heritage Site features bathhouses, an enormous amphitheatre and crumbled villas, overlooking the Gulf of Tunis.
Admission to the ruins includes entry to the Carthage Museum, where artefacts from the Carthaginian and Roman conflict are on display. We would have liked to have visited but there’s only so much you can see in the four days we were in Tunisia, and besides, there was a long line of tourists waiting to go in when we arrived!
The town of Sidi Bou Said is just marvellous. It’s a small town built on the way to a hill from where you can admire the coast. At first glimpse you say to yourself: “Was I drugged and put on a plane to Greece?” Indeed, the houses of this enchanting town resemble the Greek ones, with white plaster and blue windows.
All in all, our half day visit around the medina and new city area of Tunis was an enjoyable one, especially as it was just a short and very cheap 30-minute train ride from where we were staying in Sidi Bou Said. Definitely worth a visit, even if just a short one.
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