After leaving Baku, I set off with my new friend Gokul, who lives and works in Abu Dhabi. He joined me for the first night and day of the trip, while I would spend three nights in Sheki. The drive itself was a journey through Azerbaijan’s stunning landscapes, passing forests, traditional villages, and rolling hills. Along the way, we stopped in Shamakhi, a town known for its historical mosques and the mausoleum of the poet Nizami. Even a brief walk through its streets revealed glimpses of daily life intertwined with centuries of history.
Continuing on, we arrived in Gebele, where nature truly stole the show. Yeddi Gozel Waterfall, with its seven cascading tiers, was breathtaking. Local legend says that each tier has its own story and that couples who visit together are blessed with lasting happiness. The waterfall tumbled over moss-covered rocks into a clear pool below, surrounded by dense woodland. The sound of water crashing and birds calling in the trees made it feel almost enchanted, a hidden gem tucked away from the main road. I lingered there, mesmerized by the movement and sound, feeling the cool mist on my face.
Nearby, Nohur Lake offered a completely different kind of magic. On the day of my visit, the lake was shrouded in thick mist, creating a surreal, almost ethereal atmosphere. Its calm, mirror-like surface reflected only vague outlines of the surrounding hills, and the fog blurred the line between water and sky. Walking along the lakeshore, I could hear only the occasional splash of a fish or the soft rustle of leaves. The mist added a sense of mystery and quiet introspection, making it easy to lose track of time and simply absorb the beauty and serenity of the landscape.
By the time we arrived in Sheki, the town’s storybook charm was immediately apparent. Nestled at the foot of the Greater Caucasus, Sheki combines history, culture, and nature in a way few towns do. Gokul and I began our exploration with a visit to the Kish Albania Temple, one of the oldest Christian sites in the Caucasus. Dating back over a thousand years, the temple is said to have been founded by the disciples of St. Elisæus and later became a significant spiritual center. Walking among its ancient stone walls, I felt a tangible connection to generations of worshippers who had passed through, leaving behind an atmosphere of solemnity and reverence. The surrounding valley adds to the temple’s serene charm, making it both a historically and visually remarkable stop.
Next, we visited the Palace of the Sheki Khans. The palace is famous for its stunning stained-glass windows, which glow with intricate patterns when sunlight streams through. Inside, the ceilings and walls are adorned with frescoes depicting court life, floral motifs, and animals, each room showcasing centuries of craftsmanship. The khans were known for their patronage of the arts, and the palace reflects a dedication to beauty and refinement that is rare to see preserved so completely. Walking through the palace with Gokul, it was easy to imagine the grandeur of its past occupants and the stories held within its walls.
We also explored the Sheki Caravanserai, a traditional inn that once hosted merchants and travelers along the Silk Road. The stone courtyard, archways, and narrow corridors immediately transported me back in time. It’s fascinating to imagine the mix of people, goods, and cultures that would have passed through here over the centuries. Experiencing it with Gokul made it feel alive, even if only in the imagination, and gave a real sense of Sheki’s historical importance as a trading hub connecting East and West.
After Gokul left, I continued my exploration and visited Ilisu, a village surrounded by rolling hills and verdant scenery. Here, the higher mountains were dusted with snow, creating a beautiful contrast with the greenery of the lower slopes. Visiting alone allowed me to fully absorb its tranquil atmosphere. The village’s traditional houses, quiet streets, and surrounding hills create a sense of timelessness. Local stories suggest that Ilisu was once a stopover for caravans and small fortifications were built here to protect travelers, which adds a layer of historical intrigue to the peaceful setting. I wandered through the small lanes, admired stone bridges, and took in the sweeping views of the mountains, enjoying the solitude and the gentle rhythm of rural life.
During my three-night stay, I lodged at Mahmud Hostel, a cosy and welcoming base in the heart of Sheki. The rooms were simple yet comfortable, with warm touches that made it feel homely. The staff were incredibly helpful, offering guidance on local attractions and recommending restaurants. Its central location made it easy to access both the town’s historical sites and surrounding countryside, and returning there after long days of sightseeing always felt like coming home.
Every evening, I enjoyed dinners at a nearby local restaurant. The meals were consistently delightful, with hearty stews, freshly baked bread, and seasonal vegetables. I particularly loved trying piti, a traditional lamb and chickpea dish cooked in a clay pot, which was rich, comforting, and perfect after a day of exploring. The combination of flavors, warmth, and friendly service made each dinner a highlight of the day, and I looked forward to returning each night.
On the return journey to Baku, I stopped at Kurmukhi Church, a quiet and atmospheric site set away from the main road. Its stone walls, modest architecture, and serene surroundings offered a reflective end to the trip. The peacefulness of the church and its simple, enduring beauty made it a perfect spot to pause and reflect before returning to the city.
This journey through Sheki and its surroundings reminded me that travel is about more than just checking off sights. It’s about sharing experiences, like exploring with a friend, and discovering moments that linger — the roar of a waterfall, the mystical fog at a lake, centuries-old stones of a temple, or the glow of a palace window. My time in Sheki, enriched by stops in Shamakhi, Gebele, Kish, Ilisu, and Kurmukhi, offered a glimpse of Azerbaijan that is gentle, colorful, and deeply human. It was a trip that combined history, nature, and culture in a way that left a lasting impression, one that I will remember long after returning to Baku.
