When I arrived in Baku one December evening, the first thing that struck me was the air. It felt colder and sharper than anything I was used to in Malta, yet it carried a sense of promise. I had four full days in the city in total, split between the start and end of my trip, and those days shaped my entire experience of Azerbaijan. Baku was modern, historic, chaotic and calm all at once. It felt like a place that never stopped shifting, and I found myself drawn into its rhythm almost immediately.
I spent my first full day wandering around Icherisheher, the old city. It sat right at the heart of Baku and felt like a world of its own, enclosed by thick stone walls and narrow streets that opened into little courtyards. The Maiden Tower stood quietly above it all. I had seen countless photos of it before, but standing there in person, surrounded by layers of history, made it feel far more real. I made my way through souvenir shops, teahouses and small bakeries, stopping often just to watch daily life unfold. In Malta, we are used to small towns with a sense of intimacy. In a strange way, Icherisheher had that same feeling, despite being in a city of millions.
Later that afternoon, I followed the curve of Baku Boulevard along the Caspian Sea. The promenade stretched far beyond what I expected, lined with cafés, gardens and families out enjoying the weekend. Street vendors roasted chestnuts and the smell drifted along the waterfront. The sea was a dark shade of blue and perfectly still, almost reflecting the Flame Towers rising behind me. They felt like a symbol of the city’s ambition, three giant glass shapes glowing over everything. Even in daylight they were impressive.
On my second day in Baku, I visited the Heydar Aliyev Centre. I had seen its famous curve-shaped design online, but the building looked even more dramatic in person. The white exterior flowed like fabric caught in the wind and I spent more time outside than inside, just walking around the structure and taking it in from every angle. Inside, the exhibitions gave a glimpse of the country’s cultural and political history. It was a striking contrast to the ancient streets I had explored the day before, and it reminded me how young Azerbaijan was as an independent nation.
During those first days, I also explored the neighbourhoods just outside the centre. Fountain Square had a lively atmosphere, full of people shopping, meeting friends and taking photos by the fountains. Nizami Street, with its illuminated buildings and endless shops, felt festive even without Christmas decorations. I stopped for dinner at a local restaurant serving plov and dolma, dishes that reminded me of the flavours of home but with their own distinct character.
After my journey through northern Azerbaijan later in the week, I returned to Baku for two more full days. Coming back felt familiar. I already knew how the roads connected, where to park, where to walk and where to stop for tea. It was a nice feeling in a city so far from Malta.
One of the highlights of my return was a visit to the Carpet Museum. From the outside, the building looked like a rolled carpet, which made it instantly memorable. Inside, the range of carpets and woven patterns told stories of different regions, traditions and families. Some pieces were modern and experimental, others were centuries old. I learned how carpets were not just decorative objects but part of everyday life, passed from one generation to another. It gave me a deeper sense of how culture is woven into this country in so many ways.
The Flame Towers are the modern icons of Baku, standing high above the city skyline with their sleek, flame-shaped design. By day they reflect the sun and the blue of the Caspian Sea, and at night they come alive with LED displays that light up the city. They symbolize Azerbaijan’s deep connection to fire and ancient Zoroastrian heritage while showcasing the country’s contemporary transformation. They are best seen from the Boulevard or Highland Park for that postcard-perfect view.
In the evening, I visited Highland Park for a panoramic view over the city. The steps were a bit tiring after a long day, but the view made up for it. The Flame Towers lit up behind me while the Caspian stretched into the distance. The city looked calm and elegant from up there. I stayed until the lights changed colour across the towers, watching the patterns transform the skyline.
On my last full day, I spent more time wandering through areas I had already visited. There was no rush. I bought sweets to take home, sipped tea by the sea and took a final walk through the old city. Baku felt both modern and ancient, shaped by its history and racing into the future at the same time. The mixture was unusual but fascinating.
As I left, I realised how much the city had grown on me. It was different from Malta in almost every way, yet it had a sense of warmth, movement and pride that felt familiar. My days in Baku bookended the journey beautifully. They gave the trip its setting, its energy and its clearest memories. It was a place that left me curious, thoughtful and eager to return.
