When I told friends in Malta I was going to Kazakhstan, most raised their eyebrows. “What’s even there?” they asked. I wasn’t entirely sure myself—but that was part of the appeal. As someone used to limestone streets, coastal views and compact towns, Almaty promised something completely different: broad boulevards, towering mountains, and a glimpse into a region I’d only ever read about.
Quiet Arrival and a Colourful First Glimpse
I landed in Almaty late at night. The airport was calm, and the air was cool and fresh—a welcome change from the May humidity back home. My taxi zipped along wide, empty roads, passing rows of tall trees under the dim glow of streetlights. The first impression was one of space and stillness.
In the morning, I woke early and set off to explore the city on foot. Almaty was greener than I expected—tree-lined avenues, quiet parks, and the ever-present silhouette of the mountains in the distance. I walked to Panfilov Park, where locals were enjoying the warm sunshine. In the centre stood the beautiful Zenkov Cathedral, a wooden Orthodox church painted in soft yellow and blue. It looked like something from a storybook and felt completely at odds with its Soviet-era surroundings.
Later, I wandered through the lively Green Bazaar. The smell of spices, fresh bread, and smoked meat filled the air. I tried kurt—a strong, salty ball of dried cheese that was definitely an acquired taste—and picked up some Kazakh chocolate and dried apricots to take home.
As the sun dipped behind the peaks, I took the Kok-Tobe cable car to the hilltop above the city. The view at dusk was spectacular—Almaty spread out below in soft golden light, the mountains glowing in the distance. Dinner that night was laghman—hand-pulled noodles in a spicy broth—and a hot pot of Kazakh tea to end the day.
Streets, Food and the Freedom of the Road
I spent the morning wandering Dostyk Avenue, one of Almaty’s main streets. There was a quiet energy about the place—people moved at a calm, confident pace, and the city didn’t seem in any rush to impress. I stopped at a café for a proper coffee and a flaky pastry, before strolling down to Arbat Street, where street performers played and souvenir stalls sold hand-crafted felt goods.
In the afternoon, I sampled besbarmak, the Kazakh national dish, made with flat noodles and boiled horse meat. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it was hearty and well-seasoned—comfort food, in its own way.
By early evening, I had a plan. I wanted to explore the mountains more deeply, so I hired a car. I figured if I was this close to the Tian Shan, I couldn’t leave without seeing more of it up close. With the keys in hand and a GPS loaded with offline maps, I was set for adventure.
Into the Mountains – Shymbulak and Big Almaty Lake
The drive to Shymbulak Mountain Resort was nothing short of spectacular. Even in late spring, patches of snow clung to the peaks. I parked at the base and took the cable car even higher, where the air was noticeably thinner and colder. The views were breathtaking—towering ranges in every direction, pine forests below, and the city just a hazy memory on the horizon.
In the afternoon, I drove to Big Almaty Lake. The journey itself was worth it—steep roads, sharp turns, and ever-changing scenery but unfortunately I did not know that one has to park the car some 10 or 11 kilometres away and walk the rest of the way! That would take some two and a half hours each way and I just didn’t have the time. Disappointed, I turned back, hoping I would return one day and do this properly.
That evening, back in Almaty, I returned the car and packed my things. I had a morning bus booked for the next day to Bishkek, and the thought of crossing into Kyrgyzstan by road filled me with excitement and just a bit of nervousness.
Leaving Almaty Behind
The next morning, I boarded the bus to Bishkek, watching Almaty disappear slowly through the window as the city gave way to open plains and mountain passes.
Almaty had been a quiet revelation. It didn’t shout for attention or dazzle with clichés. Instead, it unfolded at its own pace—welcoming, peaceful, and deeply tied to the natural world around it. As a Maltese traveller used to sea views and centuries-old towns, I found something refreshingly different here: space, silence, and the cool breath of mountain air.
This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Almaty.
